1969 Z28 Camaro, white, black stripes, red interior. VIN 124379N618870, Color Code 50/50 – Dover White. Interior Code 718 – Standard Red Interior,
Body Broadcast Sheet
Protect-O-Plate (2nd owner), have imprint of original owner Protect-O-Plate (which I think is more important than the 2nd owner plate, the original plate information is the only way to confirm numbers-matching status).
Jerry MacNeish Certificate of Authenticity
Extensive documentation, including original Certificate of Title, owner history, records of restoration, etc.
74,861 miles on the odometer as of this writing, based on records I see no evidence of flipping over.
Matching numbers engine block. I have the original 3927186 heads but 1 is cracked. The original heads have had screw-in rocker arm studs and guide plates added sometime in the past. Both heads are date coded B19.
Currently on the car are Dart Iron Eagle heads (64cc chambers, straight plugs – similar to the original heads). Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold, Holley 650cfm vacuum secondary carburetor, Pertronix distributor.
I have original intake, carb, and distributor. The only reason I didn’t use the original intake is because it would not seal to the Dart heads. The original intake seals fine to the original heads. The 69Z Holleys have a divorced choke (choke coil on the manifold) so it won’t work with the Edelbrock manifold. Snowball effect. The original distributor will work, but I don’t feel it is reliable, it should be rebuilt by a distributor shop.
Transmission is a 1969 M22 Rockcrusher 4-speed that is coded P9C03C, 19K432629, not original to the car. Per the person I bought the transmission from, it is a 30,000 mile original, never rebuilt M22. Casting numbers match up, bolts appear original, and gaskets don’t have sealer on them. I took the tailhousing off to change the speedometer gears, otherwise I didn’t touch it, just put it in the car. The M21 (not original either) that was in the car when I bought it had a 2nd gear whine so I replaced it.
Matching numbers rear end, with 4.10 gears, posi. I have not removed the cover.
Engine compartment was pictured in August 1990 Musclecar Classics magazine.
As seen in the photos, the car has coated headers and a custom exhaust with a Flowmaster transverse muffler.
In addition to the Rally wheels with BFGs 225-60/15 on the car, I have the original wheels with period correct Goodyear Wide Tread E70-15 tires. The car is really not drivable on the Goodyear Wide Tread tires but I’ve put them on for short drives to a show.
Brake booster restored to original specs.
Older restoration, the car still has a great appearance. There is the 1990 picture in the magazine as noted above and engine rebuild in 2003, and many receipts from 2003. There is touched-up places on the paint. If you want a 100% restored car, this one is not for you. (But it could be made that way.)
Based on photos in the documentation package, it appears that all original sheet metal is still on the car, but I do not know for sure.
The car is a strong runner. $6000 was spent on an engine rebuild in 2003, with many updates (Scat crank, Eagle connecting rods, JE pistons). Cam is a replacement grind, solid lifters, matching the original 30-30 cam. Cylinders were bored 0.030 over. Given the head change as noted above, I have seen the cylinder walls and they still show the cross-hatch from the rebuild. Since I’ve owned the car, it has seen nothing but a 50-50 mix of Sunoco Purple (110 octane leaded racing fuel) and 93 octane ethanol free gasoline.
I am a private owner and have had this car for 2 years now and have driven it on a regular basis, I have put 2.5K miles on it, but never driven in the rain or on wet roads. I have been all over the car and have worked out the bugs I have found. No disrespect to dealers, but when you buy a car like this from a dealer you really don’t know what you are getting because they don’t know what they are selling.
Summed up, I would consider this car as a high-end driver, and other than the limitations of the 4.10 gears, I would not hesitate to drive this car anywhere. The color combo is very appealing (not just my opinion but other opinions also). If you have dreamed of owning and driving a 69 Z, this is a great car for you. It is an authentic Z as certified by MacNeish, and it is a tried and true runner (by my experience), and it is not so perfect as to fear driving it, and it will turn heads, both sight and sound (and smell if you continue to run racing gas.)
As you can probably tell from this write-up, I’m an engineer and not a marketer. I know that I have given more information than most would want, but I want to be straightforward. I have noted things as best I know, and I’ll answer questions to the best of my knowledge, but like all cars like this one it is being sold-as-is, where-is.
Any payment via Cashier's Check, Bank Check, personal check, (i.e., any check or other payment method other than cash), the funds must be in my account prior to releasing the car. Blame this on the scammers.
Asking $82,500. Call Ray Bunton, 336-420-9406.