1932 Chevrolet Confederate 2 Door Sedan
I have owned this car since 1985.
I have driven the car 42,600 miles. The engine has 46,600 miles on it.It weighs 2,960 lbs.
It is an original body, frame, gas tank, and most body ware fenders and front apron are fiberglass. Top is chopped 2" or 3". I measured it against a regular top but don't remember exactly. It has a 350 Target Motor with a Rochester Quadrajet carb and 350 TH transmission with shift kit. It has a Trans-Am steering column. It has been Pennsylvania inspected each year since it was purchased. IT IS THE BUYER'S RESPONSIBILITY TO HAVE A CERTIFIED MECHANIC INSPECT THE CAR BEFORE DRIVING TO MAKE SURE THEY DEEM IT AS SAFE AS I BELIEVE IT IS.
It runs 100% and is reliable. I added AC / Heat in 1991 and Ron Francis wiring in 1990. I had the radiator sealed and refurbished in 2013. It has PS from Gary Beyer's, front suspension coil over shocks, disc brakes, and aluminized exhaust pipes in 1996. It has air shocks / springs in the rear. It has a 10 bolt '74 Camaro 3:08 rear end. You easily get 20 mpg + at 55 mph. It has Pertronix electronic ignition. I applied POR rust preventative on the floor, firewall, and doors. My current battery was purchased in 2008 and the one before that lasted 10 years. I check water once a year and add 4 aspirin to each cell. The car sits most of the year with only 250-300 miles per year the last few years.The motor has 46,000 miles on it and runs well. The wiper motor turns but doesn't work as it should. The left rear window was cracked when purchased and I never replaced it. The front tires have 7,000 miles on them and the rear tires 30,000 miles. Oil/filter changed yearly as well as transmission oil/filter every 10,000 miles or less. PS fluid always checked and fullk as well as yearly master cylinder brake fluid check...located underneath driver side floor plan. Seat-belts installed and 3rd brake light installed in 1988. Gas tank taken off, cleaned out, and sealed. All lights work and Ahooga horn. Steering wheel horn works pushing on sides only.
Notable dates: New engine - 26,000 miles (per odometer reading) so had 4,000 on when I purchased this vehicle.
New Master Brake cylinder: 05/2000 Advance Auto Lifetime Warranty
New rear brake lining: 34,000 miles
08/1996 New tank fueld filter...High pressure AC cut off switch and AC dash light installed
04/1998 added seatbelts
03/1991 New starter
06/1991 New electric brake switch and new windshield
1993 New rear tires at 42,000 miles
04/1994 New Holly fuel pump...removed gas tank, cleaned, and sealed.
06/1994 New rear-end fluid 07/1995 Turbo mufflers from Pep Boy...louder now and sound good as I guess they are wearing out. 09/1997 New Torq-thrust mags wheels and electric H2O temp. gauge 05/1998 New front brake lines installed, bled, and refilled 06/1998 Chrome transmission pan
07/1998 Loakr shift installed. Will start in P-N-D.
I couldn't get the adjustment after many hours of trying. It will start in P N and D. I always keep foot on brake when starting all of my cars. 06/2014 Talked with Lokar rep at the Nats East and he gave me an adjustment nut and said it should solve the problem that it should not start in 1, 2, or D. It does not start in 1,2 or R, as normal.
.ADDED 4/27/17..I FOUND THE PART FOR THE TRANSMISSION
SHIFTER TODAY THAT SHOULD SOLVE THE ENGINE NOT STARTING IN
07/1999 Russel brake bleeders installed...drained and refilled
09/2000 New Sorensen VR 273 Voltage regulator
09/2001 New VDO electric sender gauge...new inside headlight reflector shield, halogen bulbs, parking lights, turn signals
71,000 New transmission oil / filter
66,000 New short chrome valve covers installed
66,500 (40,500 miles on engine) Compression test
#1 - 130 lbs
#2 - 135 lbs
#3 - 135 lbs
#4 - 130 lbs
#5 - 135 lbs
#6 - 135 lbs
#7 - 132 lbs
#8 - 135 lbs
05/2010 greased 6 fittings on front suspension 11/2011 New passenger side halogen bulb 08/2012 Jet-Hot coating redone on headers...lifetime warranty 05/2013 greased 6 fittings on front suspension 09/2012 New water pump and belts
05/2014 New anti-freeze/water
AC may need charging; charged last in 2007.
Right rear tire...very slow leak...I had wheel off 2x buffed and resealed and still slow leak.
06/01/2016 Put sealer in and drove 25 miles
Held air for 5 months. 11/14/16...only 15 lbs. in...put a bit more sealer in and drove 5 miles
Right rear air shock...very slow leak...new shock, tubing and valves 2008 or so and it still leaks slowly.
I gave up on this one...I fill it when I took a ride. It holds for a month or so maybe.
2012 gas gauge not accurate...I fill up after every 100 miles or so. 10 gallon tank. I use 92 Octane gas.
Radiator Cap: When radiator was resealed and painted, neck was a little closer to unit so I had to grind off cap wings on 7lb. cap. I use a large vice grips to open and close. I haven't looked for a cap without wings yet but I am sure they are available.
I have installed a 16 lb. and works well.
PA Inspected until 07/2018 and inspected each of 32 years I have owned.
72,644 ----> PRESENT MILEAGE ON ODOMETER
While taking pictures today the small cabin light in the back seat does not illuminate. I tested the bulb and it is good. I suspect switch wore out after 25 years or lose connection. It lights with the headlight switch as does the light under the dash, when turned left.
The driver side seat latch sometimes won't come back up. I have a picture on how to do it. A more mechanical mind would be able to solve the problem. There are two side trim pieces near the windows that fell out. I have the piece covered with cloth that will fit. Overall I think that is all. The engine is not as clean as I used to keep it, but all shined up looks great. The headers are JET COATED and have a lifetime guarantee. I had them recoated one time. All you have to do is send them back and there is a code on the headers. I polished them once a year with Wenol and they kept their shine but haven't done it the last two years. This car has always been garaged. Owned for last 31 years. 464th Street Rod registered in PA. Reliable, Runs Well.
3/27/16 RR tire has been holding air since 11/16..put slime sealer in and drove 5 miles.Sold as is. No Warranty.
Car has current PA inspection until 7/2018 .I WILL ONLY SELL MY CAR AFTER A PERSONAL VEHICLE INSPECTION BY THE POTENTIAL BUYER OR A PROFESSIONAL PAID TO EVALUATE THE CAR. ...NOT JUST A FRIEND. I WILL TAKE YOU A RIDE AS NO ONE BUT ME HAS DRIVEN THE CAR SINCE 1985. TRANSACTION WILL TAKE PLACE AT THE LOCAL POLICE STATION TO ENSURE BOTH PARTIES ARE HONEST AND SAFE. PICTURES WILL BE TAKEN OF YOU, YOUR VEHICLE AND LICENSE PLATE If you are located outside of PA this does not apply.If I was buying this car now..I would update the following: Repair or new AC system. Mechanicals work but leaks apparent and rusting under the fender condensor...ADD POWER BRAKES as after driving a modern car, you really have to adjust you driving...she stops well, but with a lot of pedal pressure...ADD ELECTRIC RADIATOR FAN...she runs cool at speed and idles OK, but during hot weather, the temp. rises. She never blew her top, but then I always got underway. Please only correspond via this email site as I have difficulty hearing on the phone.