1974 MGB in British Racing Green with Biscuit interior, top, and tonneau.
1798cc 4-cylinder with 95hp/110 lb-ft, manual 4sp trans.
Previous owner - purchased in 1982 and driven regularly through 1995. Complete bare-metal restoration in ’95-’98 with numerous upgrades, then sadly parked in garage from ’98 to ‘15. Refreshed and re-sealed spring of 2015 (have receipts).
Current owner - purchased Jan 22 2016 at 92958 miles.
Upgrades:
• Wheels – Dayton 15x6 72 spoke stainless wire wheels (MGC) with Falken Ziex ZE950 195/60/15 tires installed at 92964 miles
• Aeroquip stainless braided hose throughout – fuel, brakes, oil
o Covered in clear surgical tubing where appropriate to avoid abrasion damage to paint and other items
• Fuel system
o Holley fuel pump, Mallory fuel pressure regulator
o Mikuni PHH40 sidedraft carb, complete jet kits and extra seal kits
• Ignition system & electrical
o MSD 6A with 6000rpm revlimit chip
o Mallory Unilite “optical points” distributor and ProMaster coil
o Replaced complete wiring harness, enclosed in surgical tubing at critical points for abrasion protection
o Converted from two 6V batteries in series to single 12V in original location
o Battery-disconnect switch added
o Jump start point added in trunk for easier access
o Halogen headlights
• Radio – Panasonic CD player CQ-DP34EUC (circa 1998)
• Engine & Under-hood
o Head with unleaded compatible valve seats
o OEM Cam (451-335 88G303 CountyEngland C6012)
o (Crane Cam in box(mild lift and increase in duration – not a lumpy cam) in box (342-14 94 F234/295-8)
o (Roller-rockers in box)
o 30-over pistons
o Block stripped and boiled, machined, re-assembled and dynamic balanced with flywheel and clutch assembly
o Radiator overflow&recovery tank
o Cast aluminum valve cover – won’t flex, bend, and leak
o 1 ¾” Stainless header & exhaust system
• Suspension
o Moss lower A-arm set for front-end negative camber
o Rear leaf spring kit
o Front coil spring kit
• Dynamically balanced drive shaft
• Interior & Aesthetic
o Replaced all cockpit electrical switches, bulbs and indicators
o Replaced dash and leather trim
o New leather seats, interior panels and carpet set
o New convertible top full-tonneau
• Functional pieces such as door hinges, suspension arms, etc stripped and coated with gloss black powder-coat
• All fasteners replaced with self-locking nuts (nylocks) throughout where possible, lock washers and loctite elsewhere – unlike OEM vehicles, this car will not rattle its fasteners loose! A/N, Grade 8, or better fasteners throughout
Extras: In the clam-shell tubs, you should find several extra bits.
Car cover
Picnic blanket (mg-logo, etc)
Crane cam in box
OEM intake and SU carbs with air cleaners
Roller rockers
Shop manual
Jets and manual for the Mikuni carb
File folder with receipts for most of the thousands of new bits and pieces that went on the car during reassembly. Primary sources were Moss Motors, Victoria British, The Roadster Shop
Front cowl intake: just forward-center of the windshield is the fresh air intake for the cockpit. Note that there’s a stainless screen mounted beneath the trim piece to keep leaves and junk out of the air box. There is also a magnetic cover for the intake to keep water out if you end up parking outside in a rainstorm. That cover is currently sticking to the underside of the trunk lid. Black, with MG logo in the middle.
Electrical – Battery, Jump point, and Disconnect:
The car originally sported 2) 6V batteries under the rear package shelf wired in series to create a 12V system. Those batteries are just not available these days, so we converted to a single 12V
battery that actually still fits in one of the 6V battery buckets. The system is still 12V, negative earth as original, just doesn’t use two 6v batteries to get there.
There is also a battery-disconnect switch behind the passenger seat. The switch itself is a standard racing-type kill switch, but is only wired to disconnect the battery – it will not kill the ignition. My intent installing it was as more of a theft prevention device. The alternator wiring could be re-routed through the switch if you want to turn it into a true kill switch.
Since the battery is difficult to access in the event you need to jump-start the car, I routed battery cables up to a point in the trunk and installed a battery quick disconnect like http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61Ed4mj-e3L.jpg. The handle-side of that setup has two short pieces of battery cable ending exposed so jumper cables could clamp on. Handle is stored in the trunk.
